By Chris Middleton

I have learned a few tricks that really make transfers turn out very nice. There are a few big problems with just applying transfers to a model that bother me. The first is the clear film that always appears around the outside of the transfer, I have found a 2 tricks that all but eliminate this, the first thing is I apply a coat of gloss finish to the area of the model where the transfer is to be placed. this allows the clear shinny surface of the transfer to blend into the back ground. When it has dried, I spray the model with dull coat. I think you will find this does a very nice job of hiding that shinny area outlining the transfer.

The second trick is to take a very sharp X-ACTO knife and trim as much of the excess from around the transfer, I do this before putting the transfer in water I cut only the transfer itself by scribing it with the knife and not cutting through the backing paper. This does two things it helps eliminate the outline and the smaller the transfer the better able it is to from to the surface. Especially when putting transfers on shoulder pads of space marines.

Another problem with transfers as I just stated is getting them to conform to the surface of the model. To combat this I have 2 more tricks. The first is when I am cutting the outline or edge of transfer I make a few small cuts in places where I fear the transfer might wrinkle or want to fold. This allows the transfer to lay flat instead of folding or creasing on the surface. If the cut is visible after the transfer dries a small amount of paint can be used touch it up and hide the cut.

The second thing and most important thing to successful transfers is a wonderful product called SOLVASET. It can be found at most hobby stores and definitely any that deal in model railroad supplies. This stuff comes in a small bottle with a brush attached to the lid for application. I will explain how I use. After cutting out the transfer and putting it in water I put a small droplet of the Solvaset on the surface where you want the transfer. I find it works best if applied first for two reason's, it allows the transfer to float on the surface easier allowing you to slide the transfer around with the tip of a small paint brush allowing you to get perfect placement of the transfer, but the main purpose of Solvaset is actually a mild solvent that allows the transfer to flex and stretch. It almost melts the transfer and softens it to allow it to conform to the surface it is being applied to. The only bad part is that it extends the dry time of the transfer, which in some cases is a good thing in itself. This effect I have found works best if you apply the solvaset first. Which kind of gets under it between transfer and surface allowing it to work it's magic. So now you have transfer floating on a puddle of this stuff. Shift it around gently with the tip of a brush until it is just prefect, then very gently take the corner of a tissue and use it to soak up any excess solvaset allowing the transfer to settle into place. Allow a good long dry time and then touch up the transfer with paint if needed. For a final step spray dullcoat on the whole model to seal the transfer and the rest of the model. In some cases it is best to apply transfers to models before doing any weathering or if you plan to dry brush on some dirt or blood this will not leave you with a clean transfer on a dirty model.

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